Friday, 9 December 2022

Car troubles: Audi a6 C4 2.5TDI fault code due to led tail lights

Car troubles: Fault code due to led tail lights


Car troubles are never fun, especially when you're dealing with an older vehicle. If you own an Audi A6 C4 2.5 TDI with AAT or AEL engine you may have come across a frustrating fault code and check engine light related to your taillights.

As it turns out, the brake light circuit in these engines can have too much resistance when aftermarket LED tail light bulbs are installed. These bulbs may have a higher resistance value compared to the factory bulbs, which can cause the circuit to "float." This can lead to the brake pedal switch position sensing circuit to stop working altogether. 

When the circuit floats, the brake pedal position sensing circuit stops working and the vehicle's computer will not be able to detect the brake pedal position. This will appear as a check engine light turning on when driving for a while and turning off by pressing the brake pedal.

But fear not, there is a relatively simple solution to this problem. By adding a 1-watt 207 Ohm resistor between the brake light positive and ground inside the tail light, you can effectively remedy the issue and get your vehicle back on the road in no time. This is a quick and easy fix that can save you from costly repairs or replacements down the road.

So, if you're dealing with a fault code related to your taillights on your Audi A6 C4 2.5 TDI AAT AEL, and have recently switched to aftermarket LED tail light bulbs, don't hesitate to try this simple solution. It just might save you a lot of headaches in the long run. Keep in mind that the resistance value might be different depending on the brand or model of the bulbs you are using.

Appropriate resistor to use as an pulldown resistor on the Audi A6 C4 brake light circuit to prevent random check engine lights

As you can see in the image, the resistor is a through-hole component that has a color code on it. The color code is used to identify the resistance value of the resistor. The first band is red, the second is black, the third is violet and the fourth is gold. This indicates the resistance of the resistor is 207 ohms with a 5% tolerance. It's important to double check the resistance value of the resistor before installing it as the power resistors might have non-standard colour coding.

To identify the first band, it's important to note that the first band is always the one on the left side when looking at the resistor. The left lead is the one that is closest to the band with the color code. The right lead is the one that is farther away or has only one band close to it. This way you can make sure that you are reading the color code of the resistor correctly. Additionally, the accuracy band, which is the fourth band, is usually located on the right side of the resistor which makes it easier to identify the right and left side of the resistor. This band is usually gold or silver in color and is used to indicate the tolerance level of the resistor, which is the acceptable deviation from the actual resistance value.

Taillight bulb holder of an Audi A6 C4 Avant 1995-1997 modified with additional brake light circuit drain resistor

As you can see in the image, the resistor is protected by a heat shrink tube and soldered between the ground and brake light conductor in the taillight bulb holder. This ensures that the resistor is protected from any potential short circuits, and is properly connected to the circuit. 

To calculate the current and power of the resistor, we need to know the resistance value and the voltage across it. We know that the resistance value of the resistor is 207 ohms and the voltage across it is usually a normal alternator output voltage around 14.4 volts.

Current (I) = Voltage (V) / Resistance (R)
I = 14.4 / 207
I = 0.07 Amperes or 70mA

Power (P) = Voltage (V) x Current (I)
P = 14.4 x 0.07
P = 1.008 Watts

It's important to note that the current and power will change depending on the voltage across it. Additionally, it's worth mentioning that the original BAY15d p21/5w bulb consumes more power, and the rear light enclosure is more than capable of dissipating the lower heat output of the resistor and the wiring is fully capable of carrying the lower current. This means that the addition of the resistor will not affect the performance or safety of the brake light circuit.

Let's calculate the surface temperature of a resistor in a brake light circuit just to be safe. We need to calculate the thermal resistance of the resistor. The thermal resistance (Rθ) of a through-hole resistor is typically around 60-135 °K/W. It can be calculated using the formula: Rθ = (Tj-Ta)/P, where Tj is the junction temperature, Ta is the ambient temperature and P is the power dissipation.

Now we can calculate the junction temperature (Tj) using the formula Tj = Ta + (P * Rθ) with an assumed ambient temperature of 25°C

Tj = 298.15K + (1.008W * 60K/W)
Tj = 358,63K = 85,48°C

The maximum temperature for the polyolefin heat shrink is 135°C and the temperature is lower. It's important to note that this is the temperature at the junction of the resistor. However, the surface temperature of the resistor will be lower than this value as the heat will dissipate through the metal leads and the component body.

Thursday, 22 October 2020

Repairing planned obsolescence in Toro 350 Ultra leaf blower

Toro 350 Ultra leaf blower bearing replacement

Overview of the patient on the healing bench

Crusty wiring

Thyristor control of rpm.

Insides
Motor type MAMCO ES144 CD
Getting dimensions of the rotor axle
Brush width
The rotor has already been damaged but is still working
Brush height
Piss-poor original sintered copper sleeve bearing
Luckily the original design was for a deep groove ball bearing 8x22x7 a.k.a. 608
Unfortunately the bearing position has not been finishing machined.
The machining reserves in the diameter are around 1mm.
The lip is in the righ diameter but the insides are a bit too tight
After some dremeling later the pocket is big enough to accept the 608 bearing
Beauty shot

Monday, 6 April 2020

Car troubles: Replacing the main bearing of a viscous coupled fan of a Audi A6 C4 2.5Tdi with AAT or AEL engine

Removing the viscous fan pulley 

The fan bearing is the same for the following models:
Catnr.: 183 07.96>10.97 Audi A6/S6/Avant quattro
Catnr.: 175 07.95>06.96 Audi A6/S6/Avant quattro
Catnr.: 189 07.96>10.97 Audi A6/Avant
Catnr.: 168 07.95>06.96 Audi A6/Avant
Catnr.: 154 06.94>06.95 Audi A6/Avant
Catnr.: 149 07.93>07.94 Audi 100/Avant
Catnr.: 155 06.94>06.95 Audi A6/S6/Avant quattro





This special tool is for holding the pulley stationary while opening the nut of the viscous coupling.




The special tool attaches to socket-head screws installed through the pulley.


    


In order to install the screws another special tool is needed.




Light tap with hammer loosens the fan nut.

Getting the shaft out





Here you can see the bolts installed in the pulley. Next step is to remove the hub. The hub may be removed by pushing it out with screws in the pulley installation holes.



Now you might have noticed that the hub only moves.


After removing the hub a plain shaft is revealed. A groove was ground to the shaft and another special tool was created. Tool is made from a M16 DIN 6334 extension nut by drilling and tapping M6 threads on each flat on the nut. Screws are inserted to threads and tightened against the shaft. 



This tool was used in combination with a improvised slide hammer. The hammer is made of a M16 all-tread rod and an old harmonic dampener of this engine. 


The all-thread is tightened to the extension nut by another nut to minimize backlash.

Installing the new pulley


Shame, the new machined part is 2mm too long.

Alright, so here is the link to the drawing: Drawing (Finnish)
Remember to substract 2mm from the total length of the main piece, all other spacers are unnecessary.



Wednesday, 30 October 2019

First sale at redbubble.com

Just announcing that someone just bought an iPhone cover with the Testarosa III graphic for 30$.

It is one of my coolest photos so I am a bit proud of that.

More light fixture related stuff

There was some streetlight fixtures included in the lightning fixture bundle I recently acquired. Some of these were cracked and needed some repairs.

The repair was done using Araldite epoxy. 

The gluing procedure:
  1. Warm up the sauna to 90 degrees Celsius.
  2. Clean up: Basic clean-up of the lenses with soap and water.
  3. Sanding: sanding of the crack edges with 400-grit sandpaper.
  4. Clean-up: This time with isopropyl alcohol.
  5. Application of glue: Pried the cracks open and applied epoxy liberally.
  6. Curing/tempering: Carefully placed the lenses in sauna to cure and temper the glue.
Tempering of epoxies is something I learned from 3M datasheets as they claim that tempering the epoxy might increase the yield strength of the glue by 10-20%.
Epoxy might get yellow over time as it isn't uv protected.


The dates on these say that they were made in 1988. So maybe a little yellow epoxy doesn't matter.

Car troubles: The saga continues, replacing the main bearing of a viscous coupled fan of a Audi A6 C4 2.5Tdi with AAT or AEL engine

Some of the parts arrived.

Schaeffer part number

The lip seal was already twisted over itself from the factory.

Maximum allowable interference fit for double row self-aligning ball bearing is around 24um. The bearing running-clearance for c3 bearings is 11um.

The inside of the bearing is 40ųm on the negative side.

MOQ for the bolts was 10pcs. And they cost a whopping 3.6€ a piece.

Sure, they look nice.

The m14 din609 fit bolt neck is exactly 15.00mm